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Bruce's Tips for the Flyin' King

Use the flaps like the full-scale guys. Always slow down before deployment. Add half flaps on downwind, then full flaps on base or final. Remember, the first half of deployment gives you lots of extra lift; the last half gives you lots of extra drag. If you're doing a touch-and-go, raise the flaps before takeoff.

The wing was designed with just enough span to make it legal for IMAA fly-ins. Most builders can transport an 80" wing with no problem. Still, some modelers ask about splitting the wing into two or three panels. I think a lighter and simpler solution would be to clip one rib bay from each outer panel, bringing the wingspan down to a more manageable 72".

Trike gear works great, particularly on paved runways. One common mistake with any trike gear setup is too much nose wheel movement which can cause snaking on the takeoff roll and tipovers. Use 10-15 degrees of movement each way. If it looks like not enough, it's probably just right.

You can build the Flyin' King with or without flaps. The flaps add only slightly to the overall time to build. I really recommend building it with flaps, even if you don't expect to use them much. It might surprise you how effective and fun they are to play with. Consider it valuable practice for that beautiful scale model you're going to build someday.

For the most professional-looking window treatment, try the Fourmost window flange material. You'll need three packages of the medium size (FOR 133, $3.95/pkg.). It takes some patience and careful razor blade work to make the corners fit neatly, but it's well worth it. The final result is fantastic! Fourmost products are available from BTE.

An alternate way to finish the windows is to inlay them into grooves around the window openings. Now, I'm good with an X-Acto, but not that good! The grooves can be cut using a Rout-A-Bit (available from BTE); a handy, high-quality, miniature router bit that attaches to any Dremel tool. Once the windows are glued into place, the edges can be covered up with striping tape.

Monokote can be "pre-assembled" on glass before attaching it to the structure. To duplicate the stabilizer stripes on the BTE prototype, cut the three colors accurately, overlap the edges about 3/16", then carefully iron the overlaps with a trim iron. It won't stick to the glass, so you can lift the whole shebang and iron it in place on the model. CAUTION: Be careful to keep your iron away from the overlaps - the heat may soften the bond and allow the seam to split apart. Messy!

Install your radio toward the rear of the cabin, leaving the forward portion, directly under the CG, available for "cargo" such as a camera, candy, parachutists, toilet paper rolls, propaganda leaflets, flour bombs, whatever... The Flyin' King should have no trouble lifting up to an extra five pounds or so.

Standard servos (45-50 oz.-in. of torque) are okay for the Flyin' King, but if you do have a stronger servo (60-80 oz.-in.), I'd recommend using it for the flaps. They are big and deflect a long way, resulting in high air loads.

Jazz up your model with polished gear! Start with a file to round off the edges, followed with some 150-grit sandpaper, wet or dry. Remove scratches with 320, finish sand with 400, then apply metal polish and elbow grease. This is grimey work - wear old clothes or coveralls. It's worth the effort!

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